Vicolo della Campana 18
Lunch on Oct 2, 2004
This eatery is reportedly the oldest one in Rome, opened around in the 15th century. Circa 1518, if you really want to know the exact year. The Zagat Survey says this one always turns out "basic" and "honest" Roman food and also awarded it with a very high grading for their food, second only to my favorite Agata e Romeo. The food aside, this restaurant warrants my visit just for the seek of its muturity. The common sense of a gourmet tells me that if an eatery can stand there like a stalwart for 5 centuries, it can’t be too bad.
I walked in the eatery at about half past noon – and I was obviously disturbing the lunch of the staff. Again, I was the first one and it seems like I was not expected at all. The staff gave me an enquiring look and waved me in. I must say the exterior of it seemed very wore-out while the decor inside was indeed very homey, nothing flashy, there were blank and white paintings hanged around the wall showing the relics of Rome. Rack full of antipasti was placed at the entrance to greet the patrons. The tables, however, was placed in an "elbow-to-elbow" fashion -- no wonder the Zagat survey gave it a "hustle and bustle" comment, I guess you have to expect a little cramping if you visit at peak dinner time.
I asked for a menu as I sat down. But to my amusement, the staff gave a copy of the menu with 2 pages only. The idea that I was sitting in a “tourist trap" instantly got my nerves. In Hong Kong, there are some restaurants notorious for distributing 2 versions of menu to different clientele. The version to the tourists, especially to the Japanese, of whom are always regarded the most well-off among tourists, is much more expensive than the one handing to the locals. Am I eating lunch in mirror restaurant in Rome to those scandalous restaurants in Hong Kong? Fortunately, this was not the case. I was being too suspicious. "The perform and suffer great things is the spirit of Roman," as it was written in the bas relief of Vittoriano. No, the Roman do not do spiteful tricks like this. The menu was in copy and hand-written version solely due to the fact that the dish change daily, as all the locals around was receiving this menu in the same vein.
The starter I ordered was the pappardelle in salsa anitra, in short, pasta with long-boiled duck and its sauce. To tell you the truth, I really had no idea what I was ordering because the calligraphy of the writer was too artistic. What I did know was that this was one of those “oggi lo chef consiglia,” the chef recommendation of the day. It turned to be a rewarding choice for my adventure. I always believe it is good to be adventurous at the dining table. No pain, no gain. To be a savvy gourmet, you can’t confine yourself to only those foods you once tried. You must willing to try something you have not tried or even something beyond your imagination. Anyway, the duck meat, no much but a chop of it on the top of the pasta, was very tender and flavorsome. I suspected it was boiled with some peppers, some tomatoes, some carrot (maybe, judging from the color of the sauce) and some innards of the duck; otherwise it was hard to gain the richness of this gratitude. It was delicious. You can make it even better if you sprinkle it with cheese after cheese. But you must savor it quickly before it get cold or else it will lose its high moment.
The main course I ordered was the Abbacchio alla cacciatora, which was pieces of baby lamb simmered with rosemary, garlic, wine and peppers. Baby lamb is my favorite. So I decided this was what I wanted the instance the waiter explained to me what it was for I have never tried baby lamb in this style before. Again, a rewarding choice for my courageous endeavor. The baby lamb was cooked so well that it has the “melt in your mouth sensation” with every bite in your mouth. You really don't need a knife for this dish; a spoon with a fork will do the trick handsomely. The lambs just fell apart themselves.
The wine, a house red wine cost around E4 basically has no traits to write home about. Yeah, I didn’t even bother to remember the name of it.
Judging from the dessert cart at the entrance, I said pass for the dessert as I didn't think it would be eventful.
