The Spy Who Loves Bars: Report on the bars of La Boqueria, Barcelona

I must confess I practise food philandering faithfully and I was really charmed by the myriad of bars inside La Boqueria. That's why during my 5-day stay in Barcelona, I hanged out there every morning except the last one for the market was closed on Sunday. As luck would have it, the hotel I picked up by chances was just five minutes walk from the market. But even if the market was further afield, I would still go there every morning for I consider there wouldn't be any better thing than a walk in a food market to start a day fresh, not to mention to have a breakfast made of the freshest ingredients right inside the market.

[Caveat: the following spy report from La Boqueria is highly opinionated, one-sided, and may altogether rely on groundless intelligence.]

001) BarCentral

At the far end of the market. You can easily reach the outlet by walking straight from the main entrance -- in the same route to the toilet. Plain decoration with minimalist wood panel decor. But I guess the food there must be more slap up than its decor, for it is located right outside the washroom. My rationale is simple: the food from eateries close to the loo can't be bad. In general, joints occupying such strategically disadvantaged position must have some secret weapons to stay afloat. C'mon, one stink is alright but two at the same time?

002) Bar Boqueria

In the heart of the market. The bar is decorated with ceramic fragments in a very recognizable Gaudian, idiosyncratic way. I hovered about the bar during my reconnaissances, only to see most of the time the bar is only half-filled. Such sight didn't draw me to the bar so I just passed by. Or should I try? Will need more insight from the higher-ranked on which portal to take...

003) Kiosco Moderno

Very close to BarCentral. A ma-and-pa operation obviously. If you love tortilla, this outlet seems to be it. Yes I know, almost all bars in the market serve tortilla, as do all other bars you will come across in Barcelona. Yet, this family-run joint seems to specialize in it as I found no trace of other dish after a shufti. So give it a go if the Spanish omelet thing is what you are foraging for.

004) Bar Clemen's

Near the side entrance of the market. Well, nothing spectacular with this tiny brickwork except its good feng shui, since it is located at the juncture of two entrances and thus enjoys a good traffic. Again, buzzed around the counters like the most obnoxious fly I was. The inhale-exhale-inhale methodology applied with profound depth (thank god they teach yoga in the camp). All in an attempt to develop one good reason to sample the food there with my impartial and experienced nostril judgment. Failed. If anything, the food appealed lukewarm.

005) Kiosco Universal

Very tempting. A bursting crowd of locals is always the best friend of we foodies spies because it helps us to make a fool-proof choice. Especially when there isn't much guide about the bars inside the market (is that why I was sent here?). A plethora of tapas was on display and all appeared to be freshly-made. A 5-minute observation from a close and judicious post was mounted, plus some skulking behind every patron's back -- each nook and cranny of my mouth was moistened by saliva through out the operation -- but I resisted the temptation anyway as I'm a trained professional for one. For two, I've already had my second breakfast in El Quim (see below at 007). For three, I was expecting there's something else, somewhere out there waiting for me...

006) Bar Pinotxo

By the sighting of the Pinotxo/Pinocchio hung up top, I could tell by common sense that its name equals to Bar Pinocchio in English -- but then again, common sense isn't so common in the world of espionage -- never trust what you see until you put it into your mouth... Another story I can tell is that this store is the one that pretty much enjoys international fame the most in La Boqueria.  Many a posters and newspapers clippings were spoted. One of the reasons for its success is not hard to figure out: the bar is right next to the main entrance.

But in her defense, the bar serves damn good food as well. There, I tried for the first time to have a glass of cava for breakfast. And the chocolate croissant was heaven sent, probably the best I've ever tasted. Hmmm, now I wouldn't mind be sent again for assignments in this country. The selection of breakfast dishes is impressively wide: can you believe Barcelonian eat long-stewed pork belly for breakfast?

007) El Quim de la Boqueria

My favorite. A stylish bar in the heart of the market with a friendly squad of staff. Tapas here were right up to my alley: simply made with the freshest ingredients. And to order in here is easy even if you know nothing about Spanish. Just sit on the stool and point to whatever you see right out off the grill. The cook was forever working with his spatula! Have four hot and juicy breakfasts there (two of them on the same day!). Overall, ample wine and liquor and a navy of tapas at your disposal. Warning: the portion is more than massive so it might be deconstructive if you have a petit appetite for breakfast... But for a spy who loves food -- HEY -- where the bloody hell is my martini? NEVER a issue!