April 12, 2008

The best noodles in HK you've never heard of - Part I

While the noodlicious "heaven in a bowl" writeup I did for SCMP last month leaves us in no doubt about the lure of these charming noodles joints, we must face a fact even the blind can see before we move on to plan another rewarding noodles jaunt forward: the piece is written for, well, N2N, novices to noodles.

I mean, look at the list. It practically bears no difference than pointing Robert De Niro or Al Pacino's when people asked for acting tips. For suave diners hankering a good nosh of noods, it's like -- my editor's gonna give me a nasty stare for saying this -- tickle your itchy foot without taking off the boot. List is full of shops so famed, hyped and so out-there that readers may doubt someone is just channeling a fabulous feast with leftovers. "Chaxiubao, that's it?! I can get a way better one from any celebitchy magazine selling on newstands."

But wait, doing things by halves isn't the Chaxiubao way -- and so -- allow me the indulgence to present you all "the best noodles in Hong Kong you've never heard of" series to redeem my reputation. Dare me to say, this is the list to make you feel like six inches tall even if you think you know noodles-dining in Hong Kong like the back of your hand!

Continue reading "The best noodles in HK you've never heard of - Part I" »

April 02, 2008

HKBooks2Eat 2008

Roalddahlw

 

I have been wanting to partake in one of these books2eat/edible book festivals for ages, so it's absolutely delightful to know that we're accepting the mantle of edible readership on our own turf this Saturday.

Date                         :  Saturday, April 5th 2008
Place                        :  The Rotunda, Exchange Square, Central
Open Viewing             :  12-3pm (free of charge)
Winners announced     :  3 pm
Afternoon Tea           :  3-5pm (HK$150 for adults, HK$30 for children aged 3-10)

For more details, check out the website here.

I don't know about you but my chewchew entry is simple -- I don't even need to wet my hand making it; yet it's extraordinary intellectual at the same time! All I need is some kumquat, apple and ume and voila, a famed Chinese literature masterpiece is there for everyone's drooling pleasure before you knew it!

Anyone know what hot book I'm cooking up?

March 29, 2008

Haven in a bog...

Friends are complaining about my debut write-up for the South China Mourning Post this week, saying the piece is packed with too much clarity of style -- sound commentary -- moral proses and -- hardboiled investigative and explanatory reporting... in short, too much a serious contender for the next Pulitzer Prize rather than the arrant nonsense from me as always...

Well, what can I say? This is distinguished journalism we're talking about here, right?! It's not like I'm writing with impulses on the nearest bogroll I managed to find or something...

Anyways, food always gives me tons of elan. I am actually having a good time doing this and hopefully many more will come. Last but not least, thanks goes to my editor Susan for the wearisome ordeal of patching everything together.   

0275247_2_2[courtesy of SCMP]

March 24, 2008

Sun Den Seafood Restaurant: where sex work is work and cheap food is food

Scm_news_scmp_18mar08_ns_ziteng2When I read that workers from the sex industry and concern groups marched to the police headquarters, demanding the police to end discrimination against sex workers last week, I was aghast. Not that I work in the industry myself, but I can empathy with the wrath of the our fellow sex workers. 100 per cent.

I mean -- let us not argue the matter -- whose slate is clean anyway? If you look at the homepage of Zi Teng, a local consciousness raising group for the sex trade, you'll see why a sex job is just about as respectable as any other job in this world -- it might even seen philanthropic of high distinction to some -- reasons include, among others: family burden, loneliness, or even upkeep of stray animals (shame on you PETA people who knows nothing but mooching around naked)! That's why I find it absolutely terrifying there is people who still look down on hookers and think them deserve lesser. As years rolled away, prostitutes are slighted and the imbalances they suffered received scant attention in our society.

A fact you simply can't deny is, like the banner says -- no matter how cheap and filthy you find it to be -- sex work is work; just like there's no denying that cheap food is food!

That's why I'm sharing with you the Sun Den Restaurant from Mongkok, yesh, the slum that reigns all the cheapnesses of Hong Kong. At a time when any fancy-pancy hangout in town can cost you a phallic spasm with a stratospheric bill, Sun Den is only asking a tiny fraction of that (around HK$100 per head) to give you the same level of gustatory satisfaction; just like what anyone of the hostesses from the 'one-woman' brothels around are doing when call girls from Russia checking in some 5-star hotels try Blue Bar of Four Seasons after 10 are asking upwards of HK$4,000 for comparable services.

Sun Den

So next time when you're in Shanghai Street of Mongkok, look out for the "divine beacon" (what Sun Den literally means in Chinese) of yummy Cantonese nosh from afar. Truth be told, deep down in the wild bushes of fluorescent signs is where a towering palace of cheap food erected. Signature dishes include sauteed fish belly with eggs, chicken feet soup, baked fish guts with deep-fried dough sticks, stir-fried beef marrow and stir-fried frog's stomaches (takes more than 40 frogs to make one plate); night in and night out, good, enrapturing food are serving here at dirt cheap prices with dedication, showing how there's nothing bad about spending low once you realize sometimes good thing in life never needs a price tag to prove it...

The only snag is, with so much captivating signs of brothels and massage parlors nearby, you'll really need to mind your step. Por una cabeza, you don't want your thirst for good food be mistakenly driven to the scent of a woman...for that'll really drive you crazy, right? [News picture to the left courtesy of SCMP]

March 02, 2008

Celebrating Jean Paul Hevin coming to Hong Kong

The first shop from our cocoa maestro is finally here, the first one outside anyway of Japan and France. It's a bit on the smaller side for the moment but the second coming of JPH in the form of so-called "flagship" or "concept" store is a soo-in if you ask me: just look at the size of crowd swarming outside!

JPH

Conspicuously missing is his aperitif cheese chocolate collection (where's the pont-l'eveque, roquefort, and epoisses?! Why, why are you doing this to humanity?!), as do the soft, plum lips of his chocolate cakes to kiss. Aarrrh, where's the Guayaquil, Longchamp and Safi?! Mr. Hevin, stop teasing us!

The most poetic piece of chocolate mastery, the infamously heart throbbing stiletto is graciously here but for display only (note: I know, it officially makes me the gayest crossdresser in town). Anyways, check out the photostream below to see what happened.

February 09, 2008

Wanna Be Startin' Something: Jean-Paul Hevin is opening in Hong Kong

The Japanese must have thought they've got all the cacao glories in the world. Well, well my friend, time to kiss your sweet "choko" illusion goodbye (sorry for the bun: the word "choko" in Japanese sounds the same as toddling and naive).

Look what I've just dug up...look who's coming to town?! Check out here for a sneak preview of our sweet revenge.

Screen1

My my, my spying perfection as a vigilant foodie certainly has no limits, nor does my affixation that Hong Kong is the Wong Tai Sin to your stomach, not less than Tokyo is the so-called new gastronomic capital of world (as claimed by a food critic in France in the wake of the 2008 Tokyo Michelin Guide release -- but does he know the fact that Tokyo is three times the size of Paris as a city?), as I found one more song to chorus my sweet aspiration (sorry, in Cantonese only)!

 

November 12, 2007

Fellowship of Shanghai crab at Lao Shanghai Restaurant, Hong Kong

OMG, food w/ bondage fetish!

To celebrate the 3rd anniversary of this good-for-nothing blog, I am going to write this Shanghai crustacean feast in the most fashionably nostalgic way, ditching all those PictoBrowser and Slideshow thingy to have food-blogging in its most basic form, dish by dish like food blogging was invented way back in the 80's!

Drunken chicken elbows

The first dish for the dinner was the drunken chicken elbows. In Chinese it is figuratively coined as "雞轉彎", (lit. chicken turns in English). Many chicken connoisseurs in China consider this part the best for a chicken -- truth be told, chicken breast has a very low self-esteem in China when compared with their counterparts in the West.

When a chicken dish is served (always chopped to pieces because we are a civilization of chopsticks, as you can sense it from my last post), guest will wait for the host to clutch his share first. The precious two pieces of chicken elbow (unlike the bespoke one showing here) are saved for the most honorable guest of the host as token of respect. For instances, in a going away party it's the person leaving and in a dinner celebrating promotion the rising star. Tenderness and sweet flavors noted, the elbows (turns) also symbolizes turning a new page in life.

Continue reading "Fellowship of Shanghai crab at Lao Shanghai Restaurant, Hong Kong" »

September 26, 2007

From The Archive: Lung Moon Restaurant in Wanchai

Today is the day of "chasing the moon" (追月), the day after the full moon at Mid-Autumn Festival. It is a day for nostalgia by definition, a day for the remembrance of something forgotten. And thus, from my Chinese blog, 2005, a resonance for evermore:

    莊士敦道上,行人熙熙攘攘的穿梭著,襯上孤悄吊燈滴下來的銀影,再離遠隔着幾張桌子張望出去,倒真有幾分像一幅流水不斷的動畫。

    這一個下午,你索寞的坐在一角,看看「龍門大酒樓」外面的世界,再看看苦茶裏倒映著的輪廓,倍發被外面生氣勃鬱的氣息感染,也不得不哀嘆華年似水, 往事如夢。想當年,這裏何嘗不曾是處處拼發着脈脈不息的生機?在「小港灣」這個喧囂的鬧市,龍門和「龍圖酒樓」及」龍圍酒樓」曾經有過崢嶸歲月。當另外二龍俱 往矣的時候,龍門還轟然而立,和「雙喜」及「英京」舉杯對酌。可現在,笙歌散盡游人去,古道音塵絕;自己雖還幸存,卻不由感傷己身似孤雁失群了。

Img_0602    你一邊和推點心車的阿嫲聊天,一邊開始叫點心吃。倒底是多少年的老主顧了,你還沒舉手,她已把一客馬拉糕擱在你面前。年紀大,味覺漸漸轉淡,越來越喜歡吃 甜爛的東西,而且這裏的馬拉糕加了黃糖和南杏,鬆軟非常。然后你又叫了一籠叉燒包,一樣的包,不一樣的皮:這裡明顯的比較厚實,咬下去不會把牙齒弄得黏黏 糊糊的。你愛老師傅的捍皮功夫,可更愛叉燒裡那丁點兒像無力暮靄般縹緲的炭香,這籠叉燒包又是一樣別處找不到絕活,值得你慢慢去享受玩味。最后,你又叫了一碟咸水角;花生餡和 肉末分配得剛好,一股咸香中泛出幽幽的甜膩,兩兩三三,活像是讓自己的味蕾在舌頭上玩捉迷藏!

    身旁的健談的阿嫲向你推銷了「露笋上湯釀竹笙」和「特色牛肉粒」這兩樣新出的點心 ﹣﹣ 聊了大半天,終於聊到點子上了!可你偏就裝作没聽見 ﹣﹣ 畢竟,人老了,開始懂得享受懷舊,欣賞平凡了。

Img_0616 Img_0594 Img_0607    人在變,世界在變,龍門卻像不曾變。五十多年了,它見證了幾許變遷。在通訊不發達的時代,這裡曾是一眾藍領的聚腳地,他們在這裡互相交換工作情報、空 缺。一日中,有人在這裡一登龍門,但又有幾多人點額而還?這些光景畢竟一去不復返了。我們還需要紅羅緑鈿的佈置嗎?我們還需要環柱啣吐,巍然躍騰的立體龍 雕嗎?我們還需要妝蠎灑堆的中式吊燈,刻絲彈墨的紅雙喜帳幔嗎?誰還需要手推的點心車呢?在這國際大都市,一片文明土地上,這座中看不中用的龐然大物,真 是跟一隻爬上帝國大廈的金剛猩猩的一樣格格不入,一點也談不上美麗!錯,錯。快快將它賣盤去!

Img_0613 Img_0609    想着想着,老伙記走過來問你要不要像以前一樣的要一盒半肥瘦的叉燒飯打包,你含笑婉謝了, 然後把最后這巡濃濃的普洱簌地喝下,換來一份新的無奈和苦澀。今年花落顏色改,明年花開复誰在?就讓一切像這壼普洱般的傾盡金尊吧!

    你自我安慰:玉環飛燕皆塵土,一場東風欺客夢。老字號的五十多年,說到底,在時代的巨輪下,也不過是須臾之間的一頓早茶罷了。再說到底,咱們的中國, 外人不就是唸「拆啦」嗎?

Lung Moon Big Teahouse 龍門大酒樓
Address: 130-136 Johnston Road, Wanchai
Tel: 2573 4066
Seats: over 200

September 11, 2007

From the Archive: Mido Cafe in Yau Ma Tei

From my Chinese blog, 2005 (with pictures from 2003):

P9060046        坐在美都的閣樓,你倚窗遠眺,暮然想起了一段悽惻往事。曾幾何時,你和你的另一半一起來過。在一個夕陽殘照,西風漸緊的下午,這裡是你倆的失樂園。沒有外 人的紛紛擾擾。 窗外,天空沒有朵朵的白雲,充其量只有對面一個紅燭照影的公園。可誰會有興趣去管外面的大千世界?窗內,你正綺語佳人,向她譜寫一段醉人曲調; 正像夜空中的星星向月兒輕聲傾訢,細說你對她的愛:甜蜜正是我倆的戀愛預告。春風得意之際,你偏偏瞥見牆壁上糊了一張 “最低消費, 每位拾元” 的告示。多掃興! 天煞的 ﹣﹣ 溫馨愛情勝千金,豈容那個多手的獃子去定奪一個最低消費? 這一刻,這告示對你只是一排東歪西倒的塗鴉…

P9060039        你向她推介這裡最享譽馳名的焗排骨飯。這似乎包含了一個戀愛密碼。你說它製造認真,選料上乘,飯肉兼備,一碟就可以把人填得滿飽。平凡不過的菜餚卻弄得 這樣有板有眼,真是無話可說的。假如她是個智慧與美貌並重的女孩,她該聽到你的隱喻:寶貝, 我對你是真情痴心的,一生一世都會用最好的待你,跟著我你甭担心,你一定可以穿得暖,吃得飽…

        你還幫自己點了一杯蓮子冰。你告訴她像這樣優質的蓮子冰現在越來越難找到。輕鬆的一句,就引開話中之話:蓮子,願我倆緊緊的連在一起,教那天上的比翼鳥也妒 忌;蓮子,你看不出我是多麼的怜愛你麼? 蓮子,荷蓮的蕊子,你看不出我心裡只有你麼? 你可把我的心都膩甜透了。至關緊要的一闋愛的短訊就是:像我這樣的貨色你現在已經越來越難找到:「親愛的,你的毛孔收到未?」

        看著她的一雙流盼的美目,你又幫她點了一杯紅豆冰。你說,天津來的紅豆,大小剛剛好,腍硬適中,口感也很實在。再次,你又用糖衣包裝了一段文章:「你跟紅豆 冰一樣,都是腳踏實地。刺寒的冰雹是蓋不住你火紅的青春,你有的是幹勁,你有的是潛質。跟我,我有的Future, 你有的是Fortune!」

P9060053        最後,你問她還要什麼不要。她思忖了半晌,然後點了一碟美都炒麵,也就是雞肝炒麵。你納罕起來:哦,親愛的,禽流感肆虐,你不怕嗎?她甜絲絲的回答:不怕, 只要和你在一起,什麼都不怕。這下可把你整個人都弄酥了。自然也不能在迷惘中聽出她的絃外之音:「點解你個人咁雞,你既銀包咁乾?跟了你這把年頭, 怎麼一天到晚都是茶餐廳? 假如你裝模做樣的在這一小爿閣樓內,給我哼一哼諾埃爾科沃德的《窗外有藍天》還好,可是,天啊,樓下卻在播放俗不可耐的尹光。他唱 《小你阿爸》的時候,你竟然隨著拍子蠕動身軀! 你簡直就視品味如無物,棄情趣如垃圾!來,就讓這碟炒麵應景地拉下我倆關係的謝幕吧:“You're fired!”」

        打從那晚起,她的電話永遠是留言信箱。焦慮、失落、絕望、自卑過後,如今你獨上高樓。奈何天,傷懷日。呆看菜牌,你光叫了一杯細汽水,因它 ﹣﹣ 只賣拾元。

Mido Café美都餐室
油麻地廟街64號
Address: G/F, 64 Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei
Tel: 2657 6460
Opening hours: 7:30am – 9pm
Seating: 40

August 30, 2007

From The Archive: Kwan Kee pork knuckle noodles in Fanling

From my Chinese blog "Wok'NRoll" back in 2005:

Img_8694_2

    甫踏進群記,一股花樣年華的韻味即襲人而來。但畢竟這埋不是六十年代流金滿瀉的舊北角,更不是那年那月那紙醉金迷的大荁地。有這般 年華,偏卻欠了一陣花蕩沁人的飄香。只因這埋是聯和墟 ﹣﹣ 昔日的菜場 。雖然沒有情怯的朝偉,西裝筆挺的端坐一旁;沒有玲瓏素靜的曼玉,默默地倚望。沒關係,你可曾想到,在這陳舊破落,冷氣都沒裝的撇腳餐館埋,正在淥麵的阿嫂,後 生的時候,也許就是粉嶺的蘇麗珍?和她出雙入對穿梭於菜場的周慕雲,也許正是今天躬坐在收銀機後的阿伯?

Img_8695_2

    也許、或者、假如…

    正想得入神時,一陣豬香撲鼻而來。你怔了一怔,看見阿姐厚貌深情地問你要啥。在這關節眼上你卻遲疑了那千分之二秒,最後一鼓作氣的點了這埋的招牌作: 豬手米。就是這碗有豬手的米,或有米的豬手,害得你一路上思潮起伏,七旋八轉的。阿姐爽快的應聲而退 ﹣﹣ 幸虧還未賣完 ﹣﹣ 否則要人悵然若失的空口而回,怎是一個恨字了得?

Img_8693_2

Img_8697

    不消一會, 一碗炆得腍腍的豬手已展現眼前。白玉凝脂配上一瓢碧清的上湯,益發顯得她出落精緻,有若芙蓉出浴。罷了,弱水三千, 只飲這瓢罷了。你這刻再也顧不得儀態,手口並用的把這豬手往口埋塞:正是「皂雕追紫燕,猛虎啖羊羔」。你連啃帶咬,連咬帶扯,連扯又帶嚼的把這碗天殺的豬手 幹掉。那份狠勁,直叫天地動容,四座喝采!所謂人生一世, 草生一秋, 吃得如狼賽虎又如何? 這不叫沒修養,這叫真情流露。來, 愛拼才會贏。別讓這美好時光停下來,再來一碗牛圓米。那軟玉溫香的牛圓點上隱隱泛著紫光的客家秘制辣椒醬,真是「交頸鴛鴦成兩兩,金童玉女常雙雙」!再加上 豬手,簡直就是「文蕭今遇彩鸞仙」!單一字絕?不,簡直就是絕上加絕!

Img_8696

    還有,那濃稠有致,入味三分的炆牛腩,乖乖我的媽, 牛腩可以燒成這樣子,就真是比九記牛腩更九記了。千般旖旎,萬種情懷,只能說就好像聽著滿口柱候醬的蔡琴在唱《恰似你的溫柔》似的,教衆生欲罷不能。

    看你吃得一身汗如雨下, 活比在炎夏幹了一場勞動的模樣,你身邊的花豔娘子風情萬種的從一包隨報贈送的紙巾裡抽出薄薄的一張,客氣地遞上。可你頭一側,眼一睜。用行動告訴善解人意的她:你好猛男,你好專一 。吃麵就吃麵,抹汗就抹汗,絕不會有絲亳的含糊!她徐徐的閉上眼眸。等你,等你把麵吃完…

    然後你倆一起打了一個飽嗝。

Kwan Kee Pork Knuckle Noodles
Add: G/F, 5 Luen Cheong Street, Luen Wo Market, Fanling, New Territories
Tel: 2675 6382
Open hours: 11am to 5:45pm
Setting: Communal table and folding chairs, and inhumanely without any air-con!

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